Davidson County, Nashville Rat Control Situation:
David, Thank you for your site. Lots of great info there and very thorough. I had rats in my attic. Before I saw your site I called Orkin and they did a decent job with trapping and exclusion. It's hot in Nashville now so we have not had problems recently. Now it's time for cleanup. Wildlife Conrol quoted $4500. We can not and will not be paying that. A friend that does termite work mostly quoted $250. He proposes using his shop-vac to vaccum the droppings. I have ordered the Bac-azap for disinfecting, based on your recommendation and other reviews read online and he will also spray down the attic. Couple questions: I'm concerned about the use of the Shop-vac for the exhaust that will be broadcast while it's on. He says he will look for a Hepa filter, but in your opinion is this acceptable? Many Wildlife Control techs were in the attic many times over a month, without respirators, and to my knowledge no disease contracted (visibly). Is that enough to rule out potential hazards in using a Shop-vac? I'm told the level of droppings is "not that bad" and isolated to a couple areas. That may or may not help you. Second question is if spraying the enzyme will be sufficient, or if a fogger is required? I do have small children which is the concern, but I'm trying to remain reasonable and believe the drastic and expensive techniques proposed by some may be overkill (scare tactics?). Thanks again for your informative site, and thank you in advance for any advice.
I had a pet rat that went missing in early June of this year and just today we discovered it got stuck between my wall and dresser. It looks like a pancake. At first, I thought it was mold but then saw it's eyes and skeleton. I have no idea what to do and the thought of removing it myself is horrifying. How do I remove a rat the has decomposed this far and that is pretty much stuck to my wall and dresser?
Sunday morning woke up to find the rubber threshold to the front door was eaten away. Droppings about ¼ - 3/8" were found throughout the house. Looked like more than one with about 20 droppings. Spent Sunday replacing the threshold, put two TomCat baited traps by the front door and two TomCat baited traps in the house (by front door and next to refrigerator. Also, two mouse traps with peanut butter bait (the kind the mouse goes in and the door shuts behind it). Went to go to work today (Monday), new threshold eaten away, and only about 6 - 7 droppings in the house. All traps not touched. I have read sticky paper is a good way to catch rodents. Based off what I have stated above, is this a rat looking for a new food source to go back and tell his friends?
Hi David. Are you based in the Portland Metro area, or is that Wildlife Control? I have a listing that shows old rat black box traps and has about 12 bags of insulation that's been wrapped up for years. Buyer just had a home inspection and is asking for any and all rats found in the premises and in the crawl space to be removed, the bags removed, all the other contaminated insulation removed, vacuumed, fogged...and then new insulation laid. Would that be a job you can bid on, maybe Monday?
Nashville Rat Control Tip of The Week
Different Types Of Rat Snap Traps
Spring traps for big rodents, such as rats or squirrels, are powerful enough to break the animal's neck or spine. They may break human fingers too, while a customary spring-based mousetrap is probably not going to break a human finger. Rat spring traps may not be sufficiently delicate to spring when a mouse takes the bait.
A rat cage trap is a metal enclosure box-shaped gadget that is planned principally to get rats without killing them. Food bait (not poisoned) is placed in the cage trap. When an animal gets into the cage and moves towards the bait, the component triggers and shuts the door. The animal is caught alive and without injury. The animal can be relocated somewhere else or killed subsequently.
Glue traps are non-poisonous sticky glue that are spread over card sheets and kept in places rats visit, which gets them stuck to it when they pass over it. The rat will die from dehydration and suffocation. A bait may likewise be set on the cardboard to attract the rats.
Another type of non-deadly trap is where the wires used in its construction are cut and framed into a funnel shape directed to the cage's body. This design is usually dome-shaped with the funnel at the crown. Rats are very adaptable and can push through the smaller opening into the confine, but can't escape because of the closures of the wires poking them in the face. The advantage of this design is that it can catch more than one rat in a setting.
